Not sure? Use the pool volume calculator first — every dose scales off this.
Raising free chlorine 0.5 → 3 ppm
1.20 qt
liquid chlorine (12.5%)
2.5 ppm
increase needed
7.7 oz
or cal-hypo 65%
8.9 oz
or dichlor 56%
15,000 gal
pool volume
Liquid chlorine adds no stabilizer and no calcium, which is why it is the default for routine dosing. It does raise pH slightly. Dose at dusk — unstabilised chlorine burns off fast in direct sun.
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How this is calculated
Everything scales from 10,000 US gallons. Raising free chlorine by 1 ppm needs 37.85 g of available chlorine, which is 10.24 fl oz of 12.5% liquid, 2.05 oz of 65% cal-hypo, or 2.38 oz of 56% dichlor.
Ten ppm of total alkalinity takes 1.40 lb of sodium bicarbonate; 10 ppm of calcium hardness takes 1.23 lb of calcium chloride flake; 10 ppm of stabilizer takes 13.4 oz of cyanuric acid. These come out of the chemistry rather than off a chart, and they agree with the published rules of thumb.
pH reduction is the exception and is presented as an estimate. Acid demand is governed by the carbonate buffer, so it scales with total alkalinity and cannot be pinned down from a pH reading alone — which is why the tool asks for alkalinity and then tells you to add half.
Estimates for a balanced pool, not a substitute for your test kit. Never mix chemicals, always add product to water rather than water to product, and retest between doses.
This is a planning estimate — always confirm against code, spec, and your supplier before ordering or installing.
Pool Chemical Calculator: FAQ
How much chlorine should I add to my pool?
Enough to close the gap between your test reading and your target, scaled to the volume. Raising 10,000 gallons by 1 ppm takes about 10 fl oz of 12.5% liquid chlorine, or roughly 2 oz by weight of 65% cal-hypo — so one pound of cal-hypo moves 10,000 gallons about 7.8 ppm. Most pools are held between 1 and 3 ppm free chlorine.
Should I fix alkalinity or pH first?
Alkalinity, always. Total alkalinity is the buffer that keeps pH from bouncing around, so if you chase pH while alkalinity is out of range you will simply be doing it again next week. Get alkalinity into the 80 to 120 ppm band, let it settle, then adjust pH — it will often have moved into range on its own.
How much muriatic acid do I need to lower pH?
It depends far more on total alkalinity than on the pH reading itself, because alkalinity is what resists the change. That is why a pH figure alone cannot give you a dose. Add roughly half of any calculated amount, run the pump for at least an hour, then retest — acid is easy to overshoot and awkward to undo.
Why does my chlorine disappear so fast?
Usually stabilizer, sunlight or contamination. With no cyanuric acid in the water, direct sun can destroy a large share of free chlorine in a single day. Too much stabilizer causes the opposite problem — chlorine is present but sluggish. Somewhere around 30 to 50 ppm is the usual working range.
What does cal-hypo do to my water besides chlorinate it?
It adds calcium hardness with every dose, which accumulates and eventually scales heaters and surfaces in hard-water areas. Dichlor has the same issue with stabilizer, adding around 0.9 ppm of cyanuric acid for each 1 ppm of chlorine. Liquid chlorine adds neither, which is why it is the usual choice for routine dosing.
Can I lower stabilizer or calcium if they are too high?
Not with a chemical. Cyanuric acid and calcium hardness both come down only by diluting — draining part of the pool and refilling with fresh water. That asymmetry is worth remembering when dosing: it is always easier to add a little more than to remove any.
Is it safe to add more than one chemical at a time?
No. Never combine pool chemicals, and keep concentrated products well apart in storage — cal-hypo mixed with trichlor, or any chlorine product with acid, can react violently and release chlorine gas. Add one product at a time, always into water rather than water into it, circulate, then retest before the next.
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